| P e a c e a n d U n d e r s t a n d i n g |
Feature Story An Unforgettable Servas Latin American Gathering in Argentina By Will Mahoney
|  |
 I emailed Javier Heusser, the Servas national secretary for Chile. He invited me to stay with him and his wife, Christine Chalumeau, and sent information about a 4-day Servas Latin America meeting taking place in Mendoza, Argentina. Mendoza is a comfortable 8-hour bus ride over the Andes. I figured the conference would be a great opportunity to meet and get to know South American Servas members. When my Andesmar bound bus for Mendoza, Argentina pulled into the berth at the station, I was delighted to see that it was a thoroughly modern two-decker job – the type which typically carries tour groups in the U.S. I’d paid about $12 above the $55 price for a first-class single window/aisle seat on the lower level with plenty of legroom and a large window. The bus would cover the 365-kilometer trip in 7½ hours. Why so long? Well, there is the 10,500-foot pass at the border with numerous curves and switchbacks. And the delay for customs and immigration when arriving in Argentina. Finally, it’s the main highway through the Andes between Argentina and Chile so it’s crowded with lots of vehicles including big semis.
After leaving Santiago behind, my east-facing window provided views of foothills covered with brown grasses and scattered green trees and shrubs. The highway gradually ascended while passing small farms with fields recently planted (November is springtime in Chile). There were occasional breaks in the hills providing views of the distant Andes which were still partially snow-covered. The road cuts revealed a grey mixture of angular rocks, pebbles, and soil which gave the impression of volcanic ash flow deposits.
Scenery along the way - Andes in the distance, Rio Blanco laden with sediment, planted fields An hour after leaving, we passed through the one-kilometer Chacabuco Tunnel, and started the 65 km climb to the pass. Below us was the Rio Blanco which was currently anything but “blanco”, a raging torrent of spring run-off carrying a significant load of brown sediment. Soon enough, we reached the first of “Los Caracoles” (the Snails), some 40 switchbacks. Wepassed Portillo, one of Chile’s better-known ski resorts. The bus drove under numerous snow sheds built to carry avalanches over the highway to keep the road open during the winter. Near the top of the pass, we entered a 5km-long tunnel under the continental divide and the Argentine border.
Views of the Andes including impressive waterfalls cascading down nearly vertical cliffs, and the “Los Caracoles” (the Snails) switchback on the western (Chilean) side of the border We approached the border where there were very long lines waiting to clear customs and immigration. Luckily, there was a special lane for buses; It only took about 5 minutes for my turn. During our wait at the border, I discovered that another passenger was also going to the Servas meeting. Once we got to the Mendoza bus terminal, she found us a taxi for the 15-minute ride to our hotel. Some of the meeting attendees had already arrived.
Right: Peruvian members Roxana Novoa and Pedro Puente proudly display their flag. The first morning of the SERVAS meeting in Mendoza, Argentina, I counted about 40 members present who’d come from Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, Peru, and Mexico. Most appeared to range in age from 30s to 70s.
| Radha Radhakrishna, (US Servas) President of Servas International, gave one of the first presentations. As a new member, I found his talk helpful in helping me to better understand what Servas is all about. Other than a picnic in Denver a few months ago, I’d never been to a SERVAS event. Radha gave his presentation in English (he recently started studying Spanish) which was ably translated into Spanish by a member (Merisa) from Uruguay. Here’s some of what I learned. SERVAS is one of those groups doing good in the world that most people have never heard of. A survey of attendees at the 2022 international meeting in India revealed that the host/traveler contacts and promotion of peace were considered the most important functions of the organization. The younger attendees also wanted the group to focus on “care for the planet.” Radha talked about several worthwhile Servas projects including:
SERVAS is affiliated with the United Nations including the commissions on the Status of Women and on Sustainable Growth. In the afternoon, there was a presentation by Francisco Luna of Mexico City on how SERVAS can better promote peace. While trying to listen intently to his Spanish, my mind drifted off into wondering why SERVAS doesn’t have more name recognition and members. Sadly, I suppose that most people are not interested in hosting foreign travelers or lodging with local families when they visit another country. A Hilton is an easier option for staying within one’s comfort zone. The following day, after breakfast in the hotel, we boarded buses and headed for the Cerro de la Gloria (Mountain of Glory) to visit the Monument to the Army of the Andes on the outskirts of Mendoza. The highest of this imposing group of metal statues is an allegorical Liberty breaking chains symbolizing the successful struggle for independence from Spanish rule.
The monument also includes a statue of José de San Martín on horseback. In the austral summer of 1817, San Martín led an army of 4,000 from Mendoza across the same pass which I crossed by bus two days earlier. He is revered in Argentina, Chile, and Peru as “El Libertador” (the liberator) for his major role in freeing South America from Spanish rule. It is tragic that most independent nations of South America were subsequently led by men who did not embrace the rule of law and democratic values that took hold in the U.S.A. and Canada. It has taken nearly 200 years to vanquish the tradition of corrupt strong men who held back development of free societies in Latin America. There was a festive air among the members of SERVAS: Posing for group photos while holding flags of their nations, singing, and cheering. I was sorry not to have brought a Colorado state flag with me which I would have waved proudly. Given the sad history of US interference in Latin American affairs, ally such as CIA involvement in the 1973 military coup in Chile, I would have been hesitant to hold up a US flag while standing with a group advocating peace. After we left the monument, we stopped part way down the mountain to plant several trees to commemorate the commitment of Servas to world peace. Then it was time for singing and a Sanskrit chant which President Radha taught us. And, of course, more photos with flags and banners.
Back in town, we took a train to the end of the line for a visit to the Lopez bodega and winery. After a short tour, we went to the tasting room where the tempo of fun accelerated with numerous toasts and clicking of wine glass. Later, we were fed thick steaks (cheese ravioli for the few of us seated next to a 70ish Chilean couple who live 1000 km south of Santiago. The husband, Juan, is blind. After lunch, his wife, Eloise, asked if I would guide Juan into the men’s room. It was the first time I’ve guided a blind person; I was very happy to be able to help him. | After two days with Servas folk, it was obvious that they are quite successful at doing good while having fun. I found their positive outlook is infectious.
After yoga and breakfast on Sunday, the SERVAS morning schedule called for a workshop on “comunicación amorosa” (loving communication). A picnic in a nearby park was scheduled after the workshop. One of the participants from Uruguay insisted that I help myself to the contents of his family’s picnic basket, and some red wine.
Even though Mendoza is located in a very arid region of western Argentina situated as it is in the rain shadow of the Andes, many of its streets are tree-lined. The trees flourish because of the open trenches constructed along the edge of the streets. The trenches collect and hold storm water which percolates through adjacent soil nourishing the trees. The landscape outside Mendoza is reminiscent of southern Arizona, but within the city you wouldn’t guess you’re in the middle of a desert.
In the evening, it was time for yet another party. I realized that I have gotten to be a bit of an old fuddy-duddy – used to dinner at 6pm, while my new Servas friends did not get to the appetizers until around 10pm! At the final morning of the conference, International President Radhakrishna proposed a new youth scholarship program. Every year, two students would be chosen from a worldwide pool of applicants. They would get an expense-paid, one-month trip to South America and be provided with housing by a local Servas family. During the month, they would study Spanish, and then write up and submit a report about their experiences to Servas on returning to their home countries. My guess is that Radha’s proposed scholarship program or something like it will happen. Servas has done a great job carrying out programs like this [SYLE program] and Radha’s enthusiasm will no doubt prove fruitful. I am impressed at how Servas functions so successfully as an all-volunteer-run organization. Later in the morning, Francisco Luna, a computer whiz from Mexico, gave us a presentation on updates to the SERVAS website. As on previous days, Chilean organizer, Javier Heusser, kept the group moving along with his whistle which he employed like a sports referee to get the attention of the conference’s talkative Latin participants. I found it all very amusing!
The final event was the presentation of certificates to each participant. Upon receipt of my certificate, I told the group “muchas gracias” for their patience with my poor Spanish. I knew that they could understand my Spanish better than I could understand theirs! I stayed six nights at the conference hotel: $150 total for a shared room with private bath and breakfast. Argentina seems very inexpensive these days and businesses like payment in U.S. dollars. I was advised to bring greenbacks with me. It’s not surprising given Argentina’s current problems with rampant inflation. I’m no economist so it’s hard for me to understand why a country with a healthy tourist economy and a relatively skilled labor force which exports tons of beef, wheat, wine, and minerals has so many financial problems. It was obvious to me that something was seriously wrong given the large discrepancy between the official and blue market rate for the Argentine peso. Officially, it was about 350 pesos to the dollar, but I got 800 to 850 pesos when I changed money at the hotel. I would encourage North American Servas members to attend a future Encuentro Latinoamerica Servas -- even if your Spanish is not very good, especially since many of the Latin American attendees are eager to practice their English! Will Mahoney is a retired environmental scientist with a B.A. in Geology and an M.A. in Geography. Will has worked in Botswana, South Africa, Pakistan, and Turkey and has done volunteer work in Brazil, Ecuador, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Mexico, and Canada. He served in the U.S. Army Reserve and was a Peace Corps volunteer in Niger. Will lives in Denver, Colorado with his partner, Judy Greenfield, an art conservator. He has four blogs related to his travels, control of soil erosion, and climate change which can be found at wanderinggeographer.blogspot.com |
Left: Enthusiastic delegates from Uruguay 
